Mango sellers cry out on dusty street corners, echoing the same calls that greeted the imperialist British over 100 years ago - their legacy is lived by the armies of children playing cricket amidst the crashing noise of 21st century development. Colonial buildings now crumble, glass and steel palaces rise - a homage to the IT industry and the new empire of Indian call centers. This is Bangalore, or Bengaluru as it is now known. A city rich with the sounds of technology amidst a cocophany of honking horns. Chaos for the foreign traveller. Autorickshaws weave and dodge as cows casually roam, stray dogs sleep lazily by the roadside. Entire families precariously balance on the back of chuttering motor bikes. The roads seem lawless - no lanes, no traffic lights, no warnings. Just wit and a sense of survival to see you through the next junction and to that juicy mango, a reward for your perilous journey.